Vancouver BC Gym Gymnasium Refinishing Recoating Finishing


 British Columbia CANADA

Gymnasium Recoating Service

This Service Is Available to the whole Province of British Columbia Canada

For Your Convenience Cost can be discussed over the phone or Email

604 603 7317 Mail,

Site inspections to determine the Scope of the Gym Maintenance.

IE: Restore by Re Sand or Resanding versus touch up and Re Coating .

 Your municipality can save thousands and tens of thousands with
 A moisture cure urethane finish has a usual life expectancy of Four years.
 Your municipality can save thousands  with yearly and in some cases bi yearly recoating of the  Basic Coatings(tm) Street Shoe(TM) finish on your Gymnasium

Stage floors Auditorium Floor Theatre Floors Drama room floor

Dance studio floor Activity floors Exercise room floors

and various sprung Flooring Systems

Re Coating is Fraction the Cost of a hard Floor Re Sand. Restoration or wood floor Refinishing ( back to bare wood to avoid contamination and if sanded properly on 45 degree angles ( everything but 1/2 and 00 cut) the floor will be as flattened as possible. But cutting through hard and soft grains of The maple hardwood floor at an even rate ( by the weight power and speed of the Floor sanding Machine)


Taking Care of Your Maple Sports Floor ,

Your Gym Floor has a Non slip coating over it. It is possible to slicking this coating by using Bleach, .This is a no no.

Wood is porous and can absorb and release moisture. If the humidity rises, your wood floor will absorb that moisture, causing it to expand. If the humidity falls, your wood floor will release moisture, causing it to shrink. Many installations include expansion voids around the perimeter and around columns or floor inserts, plus expansion joints built into the floor surface. These features permit natural, normal expansion and contraction without damage to the floor. Too much moisture causes abnormal expansion, which can lead to cupping or buckling of your floor. In abnormally dry conditions the wood will contract, leaving separations between flooring strips.

Steps For Proper Maintenance: Dry Tac THE FLOOR DAILY with a properly treated dust mop. If the floor is used heavily, sweep it up to three times per day.

WIPE UP SPILLS and any moisture on the floor surface.

MAKE SURE THE HEATING/VENTILATING/AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY and set to maintain indoor relative humidities between 35 percent and 50 percent year round. In areas of consistently high or low outside humidity, a 15 percent fluctuation will not adversely affect the maple.

REMOVE Scuffing and shoe marks using an approved floor cleaner applied with a soft cloth Contact your floor finish manufacturer for approved cleaning products.

INSPECT FLOOR FOR TIGHTENING OR SHRINKAGE. During wet weather, check for water leakage around doors and windows. Remove debris from expansion voids.

ALWAYS PROTECT THE FLOOR when moving heavy portable equipment or lifts. Ensure portable equipment does NOT have crowned wheels or wheels that include center ridges remaining from the molding process. These types of wheels can create very significant point loads.

Please Observe the Following: Shutting down the ventilation system in your facility for a prolonged period of time, Is a Bad Idea.

Clean your floor using No scrubbing machinery or power scrubbers that use water under pressure. Water is your floor's worst enemy!


AHF All Hardwood Floor Ltd. Coquitlam Vancouver Burnaby. Specializing in All Applications of Hardwood floor And stairs: Installation Laying Sanding Abraeding Finishing Rerfinishing Game court markings game lines 604 603 7317 Ken Moersch 25 years Experience

Vancouver BC Gym Gymnasium Refinishing Recoating Finish



AN Introduction to Basic hardwood floor finishing

SURFACE FINISHES - These finishes remain on

the surface of the floor and form a protective coating.

Polyurethane, “Swedish Finish”, Moisture Cured

Urethane, and Water Based Urethanes to name a few

are blends of synthetic resins, plasticizers, and other

film-forming ingredients. All are durable, moisture resistant

finishes. These finishes are generally

available in high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin and matte,

except moisture cured urethane. Any one of them is a

good choice for a kitchen where there is exposure to

water splashing or spills.

Oil Modified Polyurethane is generally the most

common surface finish. It is durable and moisture resistant,

and generally the easiest to apply. This type

finish tends to amber slightly as it ages.

Water based finishes (Urethane and/or Acrylic combinations)

These are clear, durable, non-yellowing

and are non-flammable at time of application. They

generally have advantages similar to Oil Modified

Urethanes without the odor of mineral spirits, and

they dry much faster.

Moisture Cure urethanes are harder and more

moisture resistant than the other surface finishes and

are generally available only in gloss. They cure by

absorbing minute quantities of moisture from the air,

which causes them to dry and harden. Relative

humidity is critical to the curing process. Follow manufacturer’s

directions. These finishes are extremely

difficult to apply properly and are best left to the professional.

“Swedish Finishes” (Acid Cure Urethanes) are also

durable finishes, generally harder than polyurethanes.

They are clear, fast drying and resist yellowing. Type

When using a brush to apply a surface finish, work

in the direction of the boards in a path narrow

enough to keep a wet edge. Lap strokes back into

area just covered.

of undercoat, working time, number of coats, and other

factors are all critical and make application difficult.

These finishes should be applied ONLY by the highly


If a SURFACE FINISH is to be applied (i.e.

Polyurethane, Water Based Urethane, etc.) after the

application of stain and sealer, be sure the floors are

completely dry. Follow by buffing the sealed floor with

#1 steel wool, a buffing pad or a fine screen and completely

vacuum up residue.

NOTE: If water based urethane is to be applied

NEVER use steel wool. Steel fibers rust on

contact with water and will discolor the finish.

Use an abrasive nylon screen or fiber buffing

pad (white or brown).

Oil Modified Polyurethane APPLICATION.

Follow manufacturer’s instructions and safety recommendations.

Turn off open flames (don’t forget pilot

lights) and shut off AC/heating units, if recommended.

Stir material well but avoid bubbles. Pour into clean

paint tray or bucket. Apply to flooring with brush or

lambs wool applicator. Start application along one

edge of the room with the direction of the flooring.

Cut in at the wall with a paint brush. Apply

Polyurethane along the length of the starting wall in

a strip you can easily reach across.

Brushing. Fill 1/3 of brush with finish, dab off excess

drip, apply a liberal amount with smooth even strokes

along the grain. Watch out for splattering. Do not

over-brush which will introduce bubbles. Work from

where finish has not been applied into the area that

is still wet, feathering out the lapped areas.

Applicator. Fill applicator with finish, dab off excess

drip, and apply across the strip direction in short

strokes, working toward previously wet area.

Straighten cross strokes with a single gliding stroke

along strip direction, feathering into previously applied

wet area and lifting the applicator up.


Apply finish in parallel strips across the room. Always

maintain a “wet” edge. Don’t retouch missed areas

(holidays) if finish has begun to skim over. The next

coat will fill these areas. Allow to dry overnight.

When dry walk over the floor, especially perimeter

exterior walls and feel corners. If the finish sounds

or feels tacky it is not dry. WAIT FOR IT TO DRY.

Buff the completely dry finish with #2 steel wool pad

or a used 120 grit screen, or hand sand with 120 to

150 grit sandpaper.

NOTE: If finish does not powder when buffing,

additional drying time is recommended. Tacky

finish residue can knot up and accumulate on

the buffing wool, screen, or sandpaper and

scratch the finish.

Merely dull all the finish. Don’t forget to hand sand

or steel wool corners and edges. Too much buffing

removes finish material to the extent the sealer/stain

is exposed or removed.

Vacuum up all dust. Tack floors with a lint-free

towel (wrapped around a bristle broom) and slightly

dampened with water or 100% mineral spirits. Let

floor dry completely.

Apply second coat. A third coat may be desired for

increased protection and durability. Buff between

coats to dull the surface.

Water Based Urethane APPLICATION. Follow

manufacturer’s instructions. Turn off AC or Heating

units, if recommended. Pay particular attention to

coverage figures, open time, and when-to-buff

instructions. Use catalyst, if required, stir in and let

stand if recommended. Pour finish into non-metal tray

or bucket. Apply to flooring with brush recommended

for water based materials, paint pad, or manufacturer

supplied applicator.

Most water based materials are applied by pouring

a “small river” along the starting wall near the “cut in”

area. The applicator “plows” this material along the

direction of flooring the length of the room with excess

directed toward unfinished area. As finish material

is used, re-pour the “small river” and continue application.

Open doors or use fans to exhaust moisture

laden air when finish films over and is dust free to

facilitate curing. Some manufacturers recommend

buffing the rough raised grain after the first coat.

Some recommend application of a second coat in 3-5

hours without buffing. Follow buffing directions and

use fiber pads or screens. A third coat is generally recommended.

Application of more than two coats

in one day is generally not advised.

NOTE: Do not over-work material. Keep

renewing the small river of material and be sure

to maintain a wet edge in order to avoid gaps

and excessive foaming.


BLEACHING. Bleaching is generally used to

lighten the natural coloration and subdue the darker

characteristics of flooring. Bleaching is generally

followed with an application of a white or pastel stain.

Application of these products should be done by the

professional. Before using a bleach be sure the flooring

is clean and free from oils, grease, and old finish that

might repel the bleach and give an uneven effect. Use

only bleaches specified for wood flooring and follow

application and drying directions carefully. Some

products need neutralizing after application. Extra

time is required to complete the bleaching process

and allow complete drying.

It’s a good idea to make a test area in an inconspicuous

place, since the length of time the bleach

remains on the floor and the amount used will affect

the degree of color removal. Also, bleaching White

Oak can result in a greenish coloration.

The bleaching process should be done only


A white stain may be applied before the surface

finish.  Check that all products are

compatible with the stain and/or sealer used and that

a non-ambering surface finish is used. The final

sanding cut with an 80 grit paper is advised with

white stains. This promotes absorption of the larger

coloring particles of the stain into the flooring. Be

sure the excess stain is wiped from the surface. Follow

by buffing when stain is dry. Stain residue on the

surface of flooring can interfere with adhesion of the

final finish.

NOTE: Seasonal cracks, surface discolorations,

and dirt are VERY noticeable and may be objectionable

in a white floor.


You should first determine what type of finish is on

the floor so appropriate materials can be used.

To determine if a floor was originally finished with

a penetrating seal, scratch the surface with a coin or

other sharp-edge object in a corner or some other

inconspicuous space. If the finish does not flake off,

a penetrating seal was probably used and a reconditioning

product can be applied to restore its original

beauty. TEST AN AREA.

If the finish flakes in the corner, a surface finish

was probably applied to the flooring. Next check for

wax. Wax interferes with intra coat adhesion so recoating

over wax is not recommended. Attempt to

smudge the surface in the same corner with your

finger. If a smudge is evident, wax is probably present

and complete re-sanding and finishing is indicated.

With Surface Finishes which have not been waxed

you can recondition by re-coating if the finish has not

been worn away to expose bare wood.




Penetrating Seal. This sealer soaks into the wood

pores and hardens to seal the floor. It wears only as

the wood wears, will not chip or scratch and is generally

maintained by thin applications of wax. After

years of wear the floor can usually be restored without

sanding by cleaning it and applying another coat of

sealer or a special reconditioning product. Worn areas

can usually be refinished without showing lap marks

when new finish is applied over the old. A penetrating

sealer may also contain stain which colors the wood

while sealing it.

Stain or stain sealer combination. Staining is the

first step in the finishing process if other than a

natural finish is desired. The oil stain with a penetrating

sealer in combination is generally easiest to

apply and accomplishes two things, coloring and

sealing, in one application. Stain only (without sealers)

requires more care with the application in order to

avoid uneven coloration and lap marks. A stain only

generally requires 8 hours or less to dry (Read

directions). The combination products (stain and

sealer) require at least overnight or up to 48+ hours to

dry in stagnant, damp, or humid conditions.

Fast-drying sealers and stains. These products should

be used only by a person who is accustomed to handling

and applying them. The mechanic should be able

to complete the job within the allotted drying time to

avoid lap marks or a splotchy appearance.

With a sealer/wax system, most manufacturers recommend

two coats of a penetrating sealer, then wax.

A reconditioning product is generally available for

use when traffic or other conditions cause discoloration

or wear of the finish. These reconditioning products

restore the floor to its original appearance without

the need for sanding.

With a surface finished system, one coat of sealer

generally followed by two coats of the surface application

produce satisfactory results. FOLLOW THE


Application: Stain or penetrating sealer can be

applied by hand wiping with rags, by brushing, or

with a lambs wool applicator. Start application in one

corner along one edge of the room and move with the

direction of the flooring. Use a paint brush to apply

to flooring at wall lines. “Cut in” about 2” or 3” from

walls to avoid smearing moldings. Apply liberally with

rags along the length of the starting wall in a strip

you can reach across.

When using an applicator apply a heavy streak of

material along the grain; leave about one foot of space

from the wall-side application. Go to where this stripe

was started. Do not re-dip; use the excess material to

fill in the empty space, wiping across the grain.

Maintain a uniformly stained area to a particular line

or run of boards across the room.

Distribute material evenly, do not leave puddles or

Fig. 8. Along-handled lamb’s wool applicator is excellent

for applying penetrating seal finishes or pigmented

wiping stains. Spread generously in the direction

of the grain; wipe up excess.

a heavy excess on the surface. Wiping up the excess

can follow almost immediately after the applier moves

away from the corner area. The length of time the

stain is allowed to remain on the floor, to some extent,

will determine the degree of color tone. Use clean rags

and wipe up the excess material left on the surface

of the flooring. Repeat the application and wiping

process, working parallel to the stained area across

the room. Be sure to overlap by one strip into previously

stained area and wipe the overlap well or else

an area that appears darker (a lap mark) can result.

NOTE: Do not allow stain/penetrating sealer to

dry before wiping. DO NOT allow water drops,

sweat, or bare hands and knees, etc. to come in

contact with the unstained and stained areas

or discoloration and imprints will result.

After completing the first coat allow to dry overnight

or longer, as necessary. Use a #1 steel wool pad or

white or brown fiber buffing pad on a floor buffer and

buff the floor. Clean, vacuum, and dust residue.

 If only stain was used, apply sealer

as the next step.

If the SEALER / WAX SYSTEM is the final finish,

apply a second coat of sealer and allow to dry. Neutral

color should be used if no additional colorant is

required. After drying, if rough to the touch, this

second coat should also be buffed with #1 steel wool

or a fiber pad, and the floors cleaned of residue. Paste

wax or liquid buffing wax is then applied and buffed

to a satin sheen with the buffing machine.

 To apply a thin coat of

paste wax place a walnut size glob of wax in an old

cotton athletic sock. Heat from the hand will melt the

wax as the pad is rubbed over the floor; let dry before buffing.


Specification Sheet
DESCRIPTION: GlitsaSC™ is a low VOC, two-component waterborne urethane acrylic blend finish designed for residential, commercial and sports floor applications.
GlitsaSC is Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association (MFMA) approved for sports courts.
Cast: Milky White
Clarity: Clear when dry
pH: 8.1
Solids Weight: 35%
Viscosity (#2 Zahn): 32
Pounds/Gallon: 8.7
Flash point: > 200° F.
Leveling: Excellent
Drying Time: @ 70° F., 50% Relative Humidity
Touch: 1 -1.5 hours Recoat: 3 - 5 hours
Coverage: 600 - 800 sq. ft. per gallon
VOC: < 275 grams per liter
Full Cure: 7 - 10 days
Pot Life: 6 to 8 hours after crosslinked
Product may be crosslinked one additional time after a 12
hour period. For best results always use fresh material for
final coat.
Sheens: Gloss Semi-Gloss Satin Matte
80 - 85 50 - 55 30 - 35 10 - 15
Three coats of GlitsaSC or one coat of a Glitsa waterborne sealer and two coats of
GlitsaSC are recommended to achieve a durable, scuff resistant finish. Apply GlitsaSC
at temperatures between 60º - 70º F. (15.6 - 21.1º C.), and 30%-80% RH. High humidity,
or low temperatures will extend dry times. Make sure to have indirect ventilation while
applying GlitsaSC. Glitsa recommends straining all waterborne finishes that have been
stored in partially full containers.
• Rock container gently (do not shake). Pour GlitsaSC into clean pour bucket.
• Dilute accompanying GlitsaSC Crosslinker 1 to 1 with water. (See label instructions).
• Add Crosslinker to GlitsaSC while stirring with a stir stick until well mixed. Allow to
stand for ten minutes before using.
• Apply GlitsaSC by using a heavyweight T-bar. Make sure to use a new, lightly waterdampened
applicator. For best results, rolling is not recommended.
• Start by pouring a 3”-5” puddle of GlitsaSC with the grain of the wood, from wall to wall.
Using the snowplow method, pull GlitsaSC with the grain of the wood, from wall to wall.
• Use a cut-in pad or a T-bar to feather out turns.
• Maintain a 3” – 5” puddle at all times, as this will help to ensure even coverage, and a
uniform final appearance.
• When GlitsaSC has dried to the touch, ventilate premises, while maintaining
temperatures of 60º - 70º F. (15.6º - 21.1º C.). Optimum air quality is achieved through
aggressive ventilation.
• Once dry, abrade with a conditioning pad and 180 grit or finer sanding strips.
• Vacuum carefully, and tack with a clean, water-dampened, Glitsa Tack Mop.
• Abrading is not necessary between the second and third coats if applied within four
hours of each other. A light abrading, with a pad and strips is necessary if the floor
has dried for more than four hours. Note: Aggressive abrading may result in visible
abrasion marks after second coat has dried.
• For best results, allow a minimum of 8 hours dry time prior to final coat.
• Apply no more than two coats in a 24-hour period.
• A fourth coat is optional for high wear or commercial applications. Do not apply more
than two coats of waterborne per day.
Natural wood floors:
• Sand to 100-120 grit using NWFA approved methods
• Screen with a 100-120 grit screen.
• Remove all sanding dust from the floor by thoroughly vacuuming and tack with a Glitsa
Tack Mop.
• At this time a first coat of GlitsaSC or a Glitsa waterborne sealer can be applied to the
wood surface. See waterborne sealer directions for proper application and dry times.
• For a lighter look on maple or white oak floors use a Glitsa waterborne sealer.
Stained floors:
• Sand to 100-120 grit using NWFA approved methods.
• Screen with a 100-120 grit screen.
• Remove all sanding dust from the floor by thoroughly vacuuming and tacking with a dry
Glitsa Tack Mop.
• Refer to directions on Glitsa GoldSeal Stains for application procedures and dry times.
• Wood tone stained floors can sealed with GlitsaSC or a Glitsa waterborne sealer. See
waterborne sealer directions for proper application and dry times.
• GlitsaSC is not recommended for pastel stained floors. For best results over pastel
stained floors, use TruSeal™ and GlitsaMax™.
Recoats over existing wood floors:
• Glitsa GlitsaSC can be applied over a wide variety of floor coatings available on the
market today. It is the user’s responsibility to determine compatibility and adhesion
qualities before use.
• Best results are achieved by thoroughly cleaning the floor with a damp mop and Glitsa
Clean Wood Floor Cleaner mixed with warm water. See directions on Glitsa Clean Wood
Floor Cleaner bottle.
• When floor has dried, abrade with a conditioning pad and 180 sanding strips. Care must
be taken not to abrade too aggressively, as sanding scratches can show through the final
Product may be crosslinked one additional time after a 12 hour period. For best results
always use fresh material for final coat.
• Thoroughly vacuum and tack the floor with a Glitsa Tack Mop dampened with water.
• Glitsa GlitsaSC can now be applied.
• To keep GlitsaSC looking its best, prevent dirt (grit) build up on the floor.
• Use walk-off mats in high traffic areas and periodically dust mop with a Glitsa Maintenance
Mop as needed
• When deep cleaning is necessary, use Glitsa Clean™ Wood Floor Cleaner.
• Use Safeglides® felt floor protectors on your furniture.
• When GlitsaSC begins to show wear, or when recommended cleaning procedure fails to
clean the floor, recoating may be necessary.
STORAGE: Freeze thaw stable. Store above 32 degrees F. If the product should freeze, allow to thaw completely and stir well before using.
SHELF LIFE: One year in unopened container.
DISPOSAL: Dispose of unused contents in accordance with local, state and federal regulations.
CONTENTS: Acrylic and Urethane resins, n-Methyl-2-Pyrrolidone, Dibutyl Phthalate, Propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether.
RUDD COMPANY, INC. . SEATTLE, WA 98107 . 1-800-444-7833
VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT WWW.GLITSA.COM The sports flooring authority


Temperature & Humidity
Temperature should be kept between 55 -75°F. Humidity level should be
kept between 35% - 50% to insure minimal wood movement.
Temperature & Humidity
Temperature should be kept between 55 -75°F. Humidity level should be
kept between 35% - 50% to insure minimal wood movement.
Routine Cleaning

Dry mop the floor daily to eliminate buildup of dust. As needed, tack floor with PoloPlaz
Hardwood Floor Cleaner to remove perspiration, oils, spills, and residue from foot traffic.
Do not use dust mop treatments or floor cleaners that contain wax, paraffin, silicone, and
mineral oil. Do not use pre-treated dust mops. Use of these products can cause adhesion
problems when recoating the floor.
Dirt, sand, and grit will dull and accelerate the wear of the finish. Removing any sand or
grit will extend the life of the floor. Place floor mats or rugs at all entryways, bathroom
exits, or other high traffic areas to remove excessive dirt or moisture. Spills or liquids on
the floor should be wiped up immediately.

Power Scrubbers

Never use power scrubbers or automatic floor cleaning machines that
disperse water on the floor (especially water under pressure). The use
of scrubber machines will void the warranty on your floor.
Power scrubbers were designed for other surfaces such as terrazzo and
vinyl floors. The chemicals typically used in these machines are too

aggressive for wood and finishes. Even the softest brushes will scratch and dull the
finish. The machine’s liquid and scrubbing action can cup the floor, and pull paint and
finish from the wood.

Floor Covers and Mats

Gym floor covers should never be used on a freshly finished floor until at least three
weeks after the last coat of finish has been applied. For complete curing, the finish
surface must be exposed to oxygen in the ambient air. Covering the floor during this
process would deny the finish of oxygen needed to complete the reaction. This may
result in a partially cured coating with poor physical properties.
Also, it is imperative that the floor be cleaned before the cover is laid. Otherwise, any
grit or dust on the floor will mar the floor when the cover is walked on or when any loads
are moved on the floor. Covers should not be taped to the floors. The adhesive in most
tapes will attack the finish and result in delaminating.

                                    ®AHF-All Hardwood Floor Ltd™  Vancouver Gymnasium Services©2003-2012   KEN MOERSCH 604-603-7317Vancouver BC Gym Gymnasium Refinishing Recoating Finishing