Vancouver BC Gym Gymnasium Refinishing Recoating Finishing
™ | MAIN | CONTACT | GYM MAINTENENCE | SERVICES | COURT MARKINGS | INSTALLATIONS | SANDING | FINISH | AREAS | ISLAND | GYM IMAGES | GYM WARRANTY | SPECIES | TRADEMARK | PRIVACY | RESOURCE | HISTORY
British Columbia CANADA
Gymnasium Recoating Service
This Service Is Available to the whole Province of British Columbia Canada
For Your Convenience Cost can be discussed over the phone or Email
604 603 7317 Mail email@example.com,firstname.lastname@example.org
Site inspections to determine the Scope of the Gym Maintenance.
IE: Restore by Re Sand or Resanding versus touch up and Re Coating .
Your municipality can save thousands and tens of thousands with
Stage floors Auditorium Floor Theatre Floors Drama room floor
Dance studio floor Activity floors Exercise room floors
and various sprung Flooring
Maintenance of HIGH TRAFFIC FLOORS:
Your Gym Floor has a Non slip coating over it.
It is possible to slicking this coating by using Bleach, .This is a no no.
MAKE SURE THE HEATING/VENTILATING/AIR CONDITIONING
SYSTEM IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY and set to maintain indoor relative humidities
between 35 percent and 50 percent year round. In areas of consistently high or
low outside humidity, a 15 percent fluctuation will not adversely affect the
Please Observe the Following: Shutting down the
ventilation system in your facility for a prolonged period of time, Is a Bad
Vancouver BC Gym Gymnasium Refinishing Recoating Finish
Surface finishes are very popular today because they are durable, water-resistant and require minimal maintenance. Surface finishes are blends of synthetic resins. These finishes most often are referred to as urethanes or polyurethanes, and remain on the surface of the wood to form a protective coating. There are several types of surface finishes available: water-based, oil-based, acid-cured, and moisture-cured.
Water-based finishes appear clear and will resist turning yellow over time. They have a mild odor when applied, and will dry in about two to three hours. Water-based finishes are very durable.
Oil-based finishes appear amber in color. They have a moderate odor when applied, and will dry in about eight hours. Oil-based finishes are very durable.
Acid-cured finishes appear clear to slightly amber. They have a strong odor when applied, and will dry in about two to three hours. Acid-cured finishes are extremely durable.
Moisture-cured finishes appear clear to amber. They have a strong odor when applied, and will dry in about two to three hours in humid conditions. Moisture-cured finishes are extremely durable and are more moisture-resistant than other surface finishes.
Wax finishes soak into the pores of the wood and harden to form a protective penetrating seal, which will appear low luster and amber in color. They have a mild odor when applied, and will dry in a variable amount of time depending on the type of wax used, and the job-site conditions. Wax finishes are durable, but will show spots from water and other contaminates.
Swedish formulated Gold Seal Finishes have been the benchmark of excellence that no other finish has matched. The Gold Seal System provides a unique combination of durability, scratch and scuff resistance, clarity, and grain definition. The Gold Seal System also provides unsurpassed beauty by bringing out the natural colors of your
In addition to our signature Swedish finishes, Glitsa offers quality Waterborne and oil-modified polyurethane finishes to our customers as well. Please check inside our website to view all of our wood floor finish systems and wood floor maintenance products.
AN Introduction to Basic hardwood floor finishing
SURFACE FINISHES - These finishes remain on
the surface of the floor and form a protective coating.
Polyurethane, “Swedish Finish”, Moisture Cured
Urethane, and Water Based Urethanes to name a few
are blends of synthetic resins, plasticizers, and other
film-forming ingredients. All are durable, moisture resistant
finishes. These finishes are generally
available in high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin and matte,
except moisture cured urethane. Any one of them is a
good choice for a kitchen where there is exposure to
water splashing or spills.
Oil Modified Polyurethane is generally the most
common surface finish. It is durable and moisture resistant,
and generally the easiest to apply. This type
finish tends to amber slightly as it ages.
Water based finishes (Urethane and/or Acrylic combinations)
These are clear, durable, non-yellowing
and are non-flammable at time of application. They
generally have advantages similar to Oil Modified
Urethanes without the odor of mineral spirits, and
they dry much faster.
Moisture Cure urethanes are harder and more
moisture resistant than the other surface finishes and
are generally available only in gloss. They cure by
absorbing minute quantities of moisture from the air,
which causes them to dry and harden. Relative
humidity is critical to the curing process. Follow manufacturer’s
directions. These finishes are extremely
difficult to apply properly and are best left to the professional.
“Swedish Finishes” (Acid Cure Urethanes) are also
durable finishes, generally harder than polyurethanes.
They are clear, fast drying and resist yellowing. Type
When using a brush to apply a surface finish, work
in the direction of the boards in a path narrow
enough to keep a wet edge. Lap strokes back into
area just covered.
of undercoat, working time, number of coats, and other
factors are all critical and make application difficult.
These finishes should be applied ONLY by the highly
If a SURFACE FINISH is to be applied (i.e.
Polyurethane, Water Based Urethane, etc.) after the
application of stain and sealer, be sure the floors are
completely dry. Follow by buffing the sealed floor with
#1 steel wool, a buffing pad or a fine screen and completely
vacuum up residue.
NOTE: If water based urethane is to be applied
NEVER use steel wool. Steel fibers rust on
contact with water and will discolor the finish.
Use an abrasive nylon screen or fiber buffing
pad (white or brown).
Oil Modified Polyurethane APPLICATION.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions and safety recommendations.
Turn off open flames (don’t forget pilot
lights) and shut off AC/heating units, if recommended.
Stir material well but avoid bubbles. Pour into clean
paint tray or bucket. Apply to flooring with brush or
lambs wool applicator. Start application along one
edge of the room with the direction of the flooring.
Cut in at the wall with a paint brush. Apply
Polyurethane along the length of the starting wall in
a strip you can easily reach across.
Brushing. Fill 1/3 of brush with finish, dab off excess
drip, apply a liberal amount with smooth even strokes
along the grain. Watch out for splattering. Do not
over-brush which will introduce bubbles. Work from
where finish has not been applied into the area that
is still wet, feathering out the lapped areas.
Applicator. Fill applicator with finish, dab off excess
drip, and apply across the strip direction in short
strokes, working toward previously wet area.
Straighten cross strokes with a single gliding stroke
along strip direction, feathering into previously applied
wet area and lifting the applicator up.
Apply finish in parallel strips across the room. Always
maintain a “wet” edge. Don’t retouch missed areas
(holidays) if finish has begun to skim over. The next
coat will fill these areas. Allow to dry overnight.
When dry walk over the floor, especially perimeter
exterior walls and feel corners. If the finish sounds
or feels tacky it is not dry. WAIT FOR IT TO DRY.
Buff the completely dry finish with #2 steel wool pad
or a used 120 grit screen, or hand sand with 120 to
150 grit sandpaper.
NOTE: If finish does not powder when buffing,
additional drying time is recommended. Tacky
finish residue can knot up and accumulate on
the buffing wool, screen, or sandpaper and
scratch the finish.
Merely dull all the finish. Don’t forget to hand sand
or steel wool corners and edges. Too much buffing
removes finish material to the extent the sealer/stain
is exposed or removed.
Vacuum up all dust. Tack floors with a lint-free
towel (wrapped around a bristle broom) and slightly
dampened with water or 100% mineral spirits. Let
floor dry completely.
Apply second coat. A third coat may be desired for
increased protection and durability. Buff between
coats to dull the surface.
Water Based Urethane APPLICATION. Follow
manufacturer’s instructions. Turn off AC or Heating
units, if recommended. Pay particular attention to
coverage figures, open time, and when-to-buff
instructions. Use catalyst, if required, stir in and let
stand if recommended. Pour finish into non-metal tray
or bucket. Apply to flooring with brush recommended
for water based materials, paint pad, or manufacturer
Most water based materials are applied by pouring
a “small river” along the starting wall near the “cut in”
area. The applicator “plows” this material along the
direction of flooring the length of the room with excess
directed toward unfinished area. As finish material
is used, re-pour the “small river” and continue application.
Open doors or use fans to exhaust moisture
laden air when finish films over and is dust free to
facilitate curing. Some manufacturers recommend
buffing the rough raised grain after the first coat.
Some recommend application of a second coat in 3-5
hours without buffing. Follow buffing directions and
use fiber pads or screens. A third coat is generally recommended.
Application of more than two coats
in one day is generally not advised.
NOTE: Do not over-work material. Keep
renewing the small river of material and be sure
to maintain a wet edge in order to avoid gaps
and excessive foaming.
BLEACHING. Bleaching is generally used to
lighten the natural coloration and subdue the darker
characteristics of flooring. Bleaching is generally
followed with an application of a white or pastel stain.
Application of these products should be done by the
professional. Before using a bleach be sure the flooring
is clean and free from oils, grease, and old finish that
might repel the bleach and give an uneven effect. Use
only bleaches specified for wood flooring and follow
application and drying directions carefully. Some
products need neutralizing after application. Extra
time is required to complete the bleaching process
and allow complete drying.
It’s a good idea to make a test area in an inconspicuous
place, since the length of time the bleach
remains on the floor and the amount used will affect
the degree of color removal. Also, bleaching White
Oak can result in a greenish coloration.
The bleaching process should be done only
A white stain may be applied before the surface
finish. Check that all products are
compatible with the stain and/or sealer used and that
a non-ambering surface finish is used. The final
sanding cut with an 80 grit paper is advised with
white stains. This promotes absorption of the larger
coloring particles of the stain into the flooring. Be
sure the excess stain is wiped from the surface. Follow
by buffing when stain is dry. Stain residue on the
surface of flooring can interfere with adhesion of the
NOTE: Seasonal cracks, surface discolorations,
and dirt are VERY noticeable and may be objectionable
in a white floor.
You should first determine what type of finish is on
the floor so appropriate materials can be used.
To determine if a floor was originally finished with
a penetrating seal, scratch the surface with a coin or
other sharp-edge object in a corner or some other
inconspicuous space. If the finish does not flake off,
a penetrating seal was probably used and a reconditioning
product can be applied to restore its original
beauty. TEST AN AREA.
If the finish flakes in the corner, a surface finish
was probably applied to the flooring. Next check for
wax. Wax interferes with intra coat adhesion so recoating
over wax is not recommended. Attempt to
smudge the surface in the same corner with your
finger. If a smudge is evident, wax is probably present
and complete re-sanding and finishing is indicated.
With Surface Finishes which have not been waxed
you can recondition by re-coating if the finish has not
been worn away to expose bare wood.
Penetrating Seal. This sealer soaks into the wood
pores and hardens to seal the floor. It wears only as
the wood wears, will not chip or scratch and is generally
maintained by thin applications of wax. After
years of wear the floor can usually be restored without
sanding by cleaning it and applying another coat of
sealer or a special reconditioning product. Worn areas
can usually be refinished without showing lap marks
when new finish is applied over the old. A penetrating
sealer may also contain stain which colors the wood
while sealing it.
Stain or stain sealer combination. Staining is the
first step in the finishing process if other than a
natural finish is desired. The oil stain with a penetrating
sealer in combination is generally easiest to
apply and accomplishes two things, coloring and
sealing, in one application. Stain only (without sealers)
requires more care with the application in order to
avoid uneven coloration and lap marks. A stain only
generally requires 8 hours or less to dry (Read
directions). The combination products (stain and
sealer) require at least overnight or up to 48+ hours to
dry in stagnant, damp, or humid conditions.
Fast-drying sealers and stains. These products should
be used only by a person who is accustomed to handling
and applying them. The mechanic should be able
to complete the job within the allotted drying time to
avoid lap marks or a splotchy appearance.
With a sealer/wax system, most manufacturers recommend
two coats of a penetrating sealer, then wax.
A reconditioning product is generally available for
use when traffic or other conditions cause discoloration
or wear of the finish. These reconditioning products
restore the floor to its original appearance without
the need for sanding.
With a surface finished system, one coat of sealer
generally followed by two coats of the surface application
produce satisfactory results. FOLLOW THE
Application: Stain or penetrating sealer can be
applied by hand wiping with rags, by brushing, or
with a lambs wool applicator. Start application in one
corner along one edge of the room and move with the
direction of the flooring. Use a paint brush to apply
to flooring at wall lines. “Cut in” about 2” or 3” from
walls to avoid smearing moldings. Apply liberally with
rags along the length of the starting wall in a strip
you can reach across.
When using an applicator apply a heavy streak of
material along the grain; leave about one foot of space
from the wall-side application. Go to where this stripe
was started. Do not re-dip; use the excess material to
fill in the empty space, wiping across the grain.
Maintain a uniformly stained area to a particular line
or run of boards across the room.
Distribute material evenly, do not leave puddles or
Fig. 8. Along-handled lamb’s wool applicator is excellent
for applying penetrating seal finishes or pigmented
wiping stains. Spread generously in the direction
of the grain; wipe up excess.
a heavy excess on the surface. Wiping up the excess
can follow almost immediately after the applier moves
away from the corner area. The length of time the
stain is allowed to remain on the floor, to some extent,
will determine the degree of color tone. Use clean rags
and wipe up the excess material left on the surface
of the flooring. Repeat the application and wiping
process, working parallel to the stained area across
the room. Be sure to overlap by one strip into previously
stained area and wipe the overlap well or else
an area that appears darker (a lap mark) can result.
NOTE: Do not allow stain/penetrating sealer to
dry before wiping. DO NOT allow water drops,
sweat, or bare hands and knees, etc. to come in
contact with the unstained and stained areas
or discoloration and imprints will result.
After completing the first coat allow to dry overnight
or longer, as necessary. Use a #1 steel wool pad or
white or brown fiber buffing pad on a floor buffer and
buff the floor. Clean, vacuum, and dust residue.
If only stain was used, apply sealer
as the next step.
If the SEALER / WAX SYSTEM is the final finish,
apply a second coat of sealer and allow to dry. Neutral
color should be used if no additional colorant is
required. After drying, if rough to the touch, this
second coat should also be buffed with #1 steel wool
or a fiber pad, and the floors cleaned of residue. Paste
wax or liquid buffing wax is then applied and buffed
to a satin sheen with the buffing machine.
To apply a thin coat of
paste wax place a walnut size glob of wax in an old
cotton athletic sock. Heat from the hand will melt the
wax as the pad is rubbed over the floor; let dry before buffing.
DESCRIPTION: GlitsaSC™ is a low VOC, two-component waterborne urethane acrylic blend finish designed for residential, commercial and sports floor applications.
GlitsaSC is Maple Flooring Manufacturers Association (MFMA) approved for sports courts.
Cast: Milky White
Clarity: Clear when dry
Solids Weight: 35%
Viscosity (#2 Zahn): 32
Flash point: > 200° F.
Drying Time: @ 70° F., 50% Relative Humidity
Touch: 1 -1.5 hours Recoat: 3 - 5 hours
Coverage: 600 - 800 sq. ft. per gallon
VOC: < 275 grams per liter
Full Cure: 7 - 10 days
Pot Life: 6 to 8 hours after crosslinked
Product may be crosslinked one additional time after a 12
hour period. For best results always use fresh material for
Sheens: Gloss Semi-Gloss Satin Matte
80 - 85 50 - 55 30 - 35 10 - 15
Three coats of GlitsaSC or one coat of a Glitsa waterborne sealer and two coats of
GlitsaSC are recommended to achieve a durable, scuff resistant finish. Apply GlitsaSC
at temperatures between 60º - 70º F. (15.6 - 21.1º C.), and 30%-80% RH. High humidity,
or low temperatures will extend dry times. Make sure to have indirect ventilation while
applying GlitsaSC. Glitsa recommends straining all waterborne finishes that have been
stored in partially full containers.
• Rock container gently (do not shake). Pour GlitsaSC into clean pour bucket.
• Dilute accompanying GlitsaSC Crosslinker 1 to 1 with water. (See label instructions).
• Add Crosslinker to GlitsaSC while stirring with a stir stick until well mixed. Allow to
stand for ten minutes before using.
• Apply GlitsaSC by using a heavyweight T-bar. Make sure to use a new, lightly waterdampened
applicator. For best results, rolling is not recommended.
• Start by pouring a 3”-5” puddle of GlitsaSC with the grain of the wood, from wall to wall.
Using the snowplow method, pull GlitsaSC with the grain of the wood, from wall to wall.
• Use a cut-in pad or a T-bar to feather out turns.
• Maintain a 3” – 5” puddle at all times, as this will help to ensure even coverage, and a
uniform final appearance.
• When GlitsaSC has dried to the touch, ventilate premises, while maintaining
temperatures of 60º - 70º F. (15.6º - 21.1º C.). Optimum air quality is achieved through
• Once dry, abrade with a conditioning pad and 180 grit or finer sanding strips.
• Vacuum carefully, and tack with a clean, water-dampened, Glitsa Tack Mop.
• Abrading is not necessary between the second and third coats if applied within four
hours of each other. A light abrading, with a pad and strips is necessary if the floor
has dried for more than four hours. Note: Aggressive abrading may result in visible
abrasion marks after second coat has dried.
• For best results, allow a minimum of 8 hours dry time prior to final coat.
• Apply no more than two coats in a 24-hour period.
• A fourth coat is optional for high wear or commercial applications. Do not apply more
than two coats of waterborne per day.
Natural wood floors:
• Sand to 100-120 grit using NWFA approved methods
• Screen with a 100-120 grit screen.
• Remove all sanding dust from the floor by thoroughly vacuuming and tack with a Glitsa
• At this time a first coat of GlitsaSC or a Glitsa waterborne sealer can be applied to the
wood surface. See waterborne sealer directions for proper application and dry times.
• For a lighter look on maple or white oak floors use a Glitsa waterborne sealer.
• Sand to 100-120 grit using NWFA approved methods.
• Screen with a 100-120 grit screen.
• Remove all sanding dust from the floor by thoroughly vacuuming and tacking with a dry
Glitsa Tack Mop.
• Refer to directions on Glitsa GoldSeal Stains for application procedures and dry times.
• Wood tone stained floors can sealed with GlitsaSC or a Glitsa waterborne sealer. See
waterborne sealer directions for proper application and dry times.
• GlitsaSC is not recommended for pastel stained floors. For best results over pastel
stained floors, use TruSeal™ and GlitsaMax™.
Recoats over existing wood floors:
• Glitsa GlitsaSC can be applied over a wide variety of floor coatings available on the
market today. It is the user’s responsibility to determine compatibility and adhesion
qualities before use.
• Best results are achieved by thoroughly cleaning the floor with a damp mop and Glitsa
Clean Wood Floor Cleaner mixed with warm water. See directions on Glitsa Clean Wood
Floor Cleaner bottle.
• When floor has dried, abrade with a conditioning pad and 180 sanding strips. Care must
be taken not to abrade too aggressively, as sanding scratches can show through the final
Product may be crosslinked one additional time after a 12 hour period. For best results
always use fresh material for final coat.
• Thoroughly vacuum and tack the floor with a Glitsa Tack Mop dampened with water.
• Glitsa GlitsaSC can now be applied.
• To keep GlitsaSC looking its best, prevent dirt (grit) build up on the floor.
• Use walk-off mats in high traffic areas and periodically dust mop with a Glitsa Maintenance
Mop as needed
• When deep cleaning is necessary, use Glitsa Clean™ Wood Floor Cleaner.
• Use Safeglides® felt floor protectors on your furniture.
• When GlitsaSC begins to show wear, or when recommended cleaning procedure fails to
clean the floor, recoating may be necessary.
STORAGE: Freeze thaw stable. Store above 32 degrees F. If the product should freeze, allow to thaw completely and stir well before using.
SHELF LIFE: One year in unopened container.
DISPOSAL: Dispose of unused contents in accordance with local, state and federal regulations.
CONTENTS: Acrylic and Urethane resins, n-Methyl-2-Pyrrolidone, Dibutyl Phthalate, Propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether.
PLEASE READ MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
RUDD COMPANY, INC. . SEATTLE, WA 98107 . 1-800-444-7833
VISIT OUR WEB SITE AT WWW.GLITSA.COM The sports flooring authority
Temperature & Humidity
Temperature should be kept between 55 -75°F. Humidity level should be
kept between 35% - 50% to insure minimal wood movement.
Temperature & Humidity
Temperature should be kept between 55 -75°F. Humidity level should be
kept between 35% - 50% to insure minimal wood movement.
Dry mop the floor daily to eliminate buildup of dust. As needed, tack floor with PoloPlaz
Hardwood Floor Cleaner to remove perspiration, oils, spills, and residue from foot traffic.
Do not use dust mop treatments or floor cleaners that contain wax, paraffin, silicone, and
mineral oil. Do not use pre-treated dust mops. Use of these products can cause adhesion
problems when recoating the floor.
Dirt, sand, and grit will dull and accelerate the wear of the finish. Removing any sand or
grit will extend the life of the floor. Place floor mats or rugs at all entryways, bathroom
exits, or other high traffic areas to remove excessive dirt or moisture. Spills or liquids on
the floor should be wiped up immediately.
Never use power scrubbers or automatic floor cleaning machines that
disperse water on the floor (especially water under pressure). The use
of scrubber machines will void the warranty on your floor.
Power scrubbers were designed for other surfaces such as terrazzo and
vinyl floors. The chemicals typically used in these machines are too
aggressive for wood and finishes. Even the softest brushes will scratch and dull the
finish. The machine’s liquid and scrubbing action can cup the floor, and pull paint and
finish from the wood.
Floor Covers and Mats
Gym floor covers should never be used on a freshly finished floor until at least three
weeks after the last coat of finish has been applied. For complete curing, the finish
surface must be exposed to oxygen in the ambient air. Covering the floor during this
process would deny the finish of oxygen needed to complete the reaction. This may
result in a partially cured coating with poor physical properties.
Also, it is imperative that the floor be cleaned before the cover is laid. Otherwise, any
grit or dust on the floor will mar the floor when the cover is walked on or when any loads
are moved on the floor. Covers should not be taped to the floors. The adhesive in most
tapes will attack the finish and result in delaminating.
®AHF-All Hardwood Floor Ltd™ Vancouver Gymnasium Services©2003-2012 KEN MOERSCH 604-603-7317Vancouver BC Gym Gymnasium Refinishing Recoating Finishing